Re: Who can I send my Apple II card to for Repair?

[TWS <adoyson@nccn.net>]

(posted and emailed to Rubywand)

Rubywand,

Thank you for the suggestions.  I see **NO** toasted components on the board.

PHYSICAL "defects" of the card:

1) It appears that capacitors got MOVED/ removed.  I don't see why this would
cause a short.  8 Caps on the board are PRESENT, but their connections have
obviously been soldered on.  8 OTHER caps on the board are NOT present.  It is
obvious that the connections have been soldered on.

2) There has been a "jumper" wire soldered on to the board  (the connections
look like they were soldered on at the same time the Capacitors were.)

I removed the jumper wire.........NO LUCK.  PS buzzzzes.

The GROUND/+5V connectors are at the BACK of the slot connector, correct?
Those pins are nearest the back of the computer?

IF SO:  theres' something _really strange_ about this card.  The ground is
connected to a Capacitor.......the other lead of the Capacitor goes to
+5V.........??????  DEAD short?  That is exactly what is happening (if the
Ground/+5v pins are located where I think they are)  However, I find this hard
to believe because there have been no modifications to this area of the board.

NOTE:  I am guessing that these are capacitors.  They are orange Ceramic
looking blobs.  They are labeled on the board as "C-XX"  where XX is a number.

106  +25  K           is what the (??capacitors??)  are labeled  (on the
component).  The K is both UNDERLINED___  and there is also an "overline"

-
k            <----------  kinda like that
-

Questions::::::::::::::::

Which pins on the board are +5v and Ground?  Nearest the BACK or FRONT of the
computer?

Can someone send me a HIGH resolution, CLOSEUP scan of the COMPONENT side of
the FRONT  (nearest to the keyboard) of the Ohio Kache Systems MultiCache
board?  I think Steven Buggie has one of these cards, could he do it for me?
There is also one other CSA2 reader that has one of these boards, but I cannot
remember his name  (??John??)

I'd like to check if the board is supposed to have parts C-21==C-24,
C-17==C-20.   Thats what I'd like the scan for.  Also, I'd like a scan of the
BACK  (non component side) of the board, near the BACK  (nearest to back of
computer).

This is where the jumper is located, and I am curious if the board is SUPPOSED
to have this jumper.

Thanks alot,
Sandy


Rubywand wrote:

> TWS writes ...
>
> >
> > TWS wrote:
> >
> > > I have an OKS MultiCache card that needs some help.
> > >
> > > When you turn on the computer, the power supply goes
> > > "z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-zz-z-z-z-z-z-z-z-z"
> > >
> > > I think the PS is shutting down, because the computer is trying to draw
> > > too much power  (which would probably mean a short in the interface
> > > card?)
> > >
> > > I see no fried components.  I do see where some components have been
> > > moved or removed.
> > >
> > > The components are little orange, rectangular blobs o' ceramic looking
> > > material with 2 leads coming from them.  I am guessing that these are
> > > capacitors  (each is labled C-XX where XX is a number).  I think they
> > > have something to do with the RAM on the card, because they are right
> > > next to the RAM sockets.
> > >
> > > Is there anyone who can work on this card?
> >
> > By the way,  I got really lucky.  The card did not fry my IIgs.  The IIgs
> > will just make buzzing sounds and not boot when the card is installed.
> >
>
>      It looks like the board has a nearly dead short. It would need to
> suck a lot of juice to shut down the power supply.
>
>      You may be able to repair the board by locating a shorted component
> and swapping in a replacement. One way to do this is to connect an Ohm
> meter to the +5V and Ground pins of the board-- usually, the + meter
> lead goes to the Ground pin and the - or Ground meter lead goes to the
> +5V pin on the board and the range is set to Rx10 or Rx100. R should
> show as nearly zero Ohms.
>
>      Once you know what the R for the un-fixed board looks like, it's a
> good idea to check the board under a lighted magnifier for solder
> splashes shorting traces and things like bent IC pins, tiny snips of
> wire, burned components, twisted or bent over components, ... which may
> be causing shorts.
>
>      If the inspection does not locate the short, then, you can connect
> the Ohm meter leads and try pulling components until pulling something
> causes R to swing up to some sane value-- something notably different
> from zero. Any place where the circuit board seems to have been burned
> is a good place to look. Capacitors mounted from +5 to Gnd are also good
> suspects.
>
>      If you find a component or components causing the short, replace
> it/them and try out the board again.
>
>
> Rubywand