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Re: wtb: original apple ][ broken as-is for parts
Michael J. Mahon wrote:
> Tristan Mumford wrote:
>> Liam Busey wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Tristan Mumford wrote:
>
>>>I'm not after you rotten ][. My moldy ][+ would get jealous. ;)
>>
>>
>> I got given the ][ in '99 (i think) after a cheap secondhand notebook I
>> purchased violently exploded. Ex Telstra equipment. They replaced a NiCad
>> clock battery with a big lithium. As we all know they don't like being
>> charged.
>
> Ah--"murder by repair".
>
> That's the price of not learning history (or looking it up ;-).
> Your service tech clearly didn't "get" NiCads.
It was a shame. It was a nice little 386 notebook. The force was enough
to 'percussively desolder' some of the components, rip the case apart
(metal shields included), and utilise the keyboard as a makeshift mortar.
It also took a chunk out of the table 2 layers deep on a 9 ply board.
Then there was the horrible, thick white smoke that filled the house.
>
>>>Well there are masked ROMs, a character generator, and a keyboard
>>>encoder but those can all be worked around.
>>>
>>>The biggest issue with the II/ II+ is that for some reason Apple
>>>decided to socket ever single chip on the motherboard (IIRC ~120
>>>chips). While on the surface it may seem to be very convenient for
>>>repairs, every one of those sockets is a weak or intermittent
>>>connection waiting to happen. On a well kept machine this is no
>>>problem. On a machine that's been sitting in someone's basement for 25
>>>years, well .... AARRGHHHHH!!!!!! Tarnished chips and sockets are a
>>>PITA!
>>
>>
>> Try a leaky shed for 6 years.
>> I'm going to do a reseat anyway.
>> The main issues are the floppy drives and a blown resistor on the
>> mainboard. The floppy drives instantly scratch the life out of disks. And
>> as for the blown resistor, I don't recall where it was. I just know it
>> made operation a little unstable.
>
> Leaky shed for six years opens up a lot of possibilities!
Apparently leaky shed with rats too. Hmmm.
>
> Corrosion and corrosion by-products should be your biggest
> worry. A complete wash followed by a complete rinse with
> clean (distilled?) water, or even a final alcohol rinse (not
> rubbing alcohol--too much oil) sounds in order. A toothbrush
> will be handy, maybe even a dishwasher!
>
> Allow boards to dry *completely* (at least overnight if just
> drip-drying) before applying power.
>
> After cleaning, examine the boards carefully for any traces that
> are either corroded away or shorted by corrosion. Ditto any
> socket contacts--especially near the board where it's almost
> impossible to clean. ;-(
>
> Sounds like the heads on your drives need to be not just cleaned,
> but burnished to remove "rust"--but nothing scratchy. I'd take
> them apart (checking the lubrication in the process) and burnish
> the heads with cardboard or a Dremel cloth wheel (carefully, so
> as not to fold them ;-).
>
> Since you are experiencing some degree of operation, the cleaning
> will probably get you to reliable operation.
Thanks for the advice. Especially on the drives. They were my main concern.
>
>>>Glancing at your website, you seem to be the tinkering type. Old Apples
>>>are great for that. They're simple and very open. There's a book called
>>>"Understanding the Apple 2" by Jim Sather that describes the Apple II/
>>>II+ circuit in detail. It's very popular with this newsgroup. You can
>>>find a PDF of it in the Apple manual section of http://1000bit.org.
>>>There's also a wealth of interfacing books for the Apple but
>>>unfortunately most haven't made there way online yet.
>
> Couldn't agree more--you can field-strip an Apple ][ in 20 minutes. ;-)
Woohoo! That's what I like to hear!
>
>> Thankyou for that morsel of information. Very useful indeed.
>> I am the tinkering type. Always have been.
>>
>> My site is out of date right now. My project hit a dead end. A fault I
>> can't diagnose with my equipment. I'm going to redo the board from
>> scratch. The wiring is right, but something isn't working as it should
>> be. I'm thinking of doing a version of the original adaption of the
>> MicroUSB board for apple2 on a single board.
>> Latest stupid idea:
>> Apple2 on wrong end of house to connect using wired network easily. Why
>> not USB bluetooth?
>
> I thought Bluetooth was for a room or two, not whole houses...
As Marcus said the class 1 devices are good for 100m maximum. I made sure to
grab one with an aerial. I like aerials.
>
> But with all the neat wireless stuff we have these days, it would be
> cool if someone would use them to connect an Apple wirelessly...to
> a modern machine or to another Apple II. ;-)
Thats why I said bluetooth. There's a few reasons:
* It's cheap
* Ad-Hoc networking is a great idea IMHO.
* One less cable to trip over.
* It's cheap.
* low power consumption.
>
> I've thought about a wireless link for NadaNet, but I need a few hundred
> kilohertz bandwidth, and that seems either UHF/microwave or illegal.
> (I also need a pretty noise-free channel...maybe infrared... ;-)
I know in Jaycar they have (some really high frequency) radio transmitter
and receiver modules. Perhaps something like that. I guess that's an option
too.
--
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===== It's not pretty, it's not great, but it is mine. =====