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Re: Any know



Thank you for the offer but I received the information I required.

    As to the question of weather it apple, it's not. It is definitely a third
party board.

    If I remember correctly it is generally referred to as a 7710 printer
interface. It took me a wile to remember this as the number on the board is
07710-0001A.
I imagine it is basically the same but a latter update of the 7710.

    The reason I want to try it is I have a Roland DXY-800 plotter. In the manual
it suggests that the 7710 is able to expand on the Roland printer board. The
Roland DXY-800 is an early Plotter and by today's standard is rather limited in
capability but for its age it is still very accurate. I know the engineer whom I
bought it from and he used it on a Apple II, II+, and a IIE before he moved up to
Mac.

    I have never found a driver for it but have programed some basic mandrulbots
using different pens which can be quite interesting if you get your hands on one
you should try it.

    I would like to try it with higher level geometry but require a better printer
card thus the 7710.

    I don't know if you remember working without a monitor but that is the level
this works at.  Like the much older TTY.

If you or anybody has any suggestions I'm all eye's.

Lets see if anyone has done anything of this nature before.?

Stephen Shaw wrote:

> Hilary is this an Apple product? The only card I know of with a title like that
> was used for the old Silentype printer. Please confirm it is an Apple card - if
> it is I'll dig out my old Silentype card and let you know what value the
> resistor is.
>
> On Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:23:12 GMT, Mike Pfaiffer wrote:
>
> > Hilary M. Turner wrote:
> >
> >> I have an asynchronous serial interface assy no 07710-0001A model 77140 A
> with
> >  a
> >> burnt out resistor in position R1.
> >> Could someone let me know the value of this restore and as it has burnt the
> >> board as well so what else may be damaged.
> >
> >       First thing is to see the colour coding of the resistor. If you
> > can make it out then find a replacement with the same coding sequence. If
> > it has been damaged to badly you can't see it I'd advise going to a search
> > engine (http://www.googol.com is a good one) and look for the model
> > number of the card there. I found a number of entries (granted most were
> > part of phone numbers). There were a lot to go through. You should find
> > some information there.
> >
> >                               Later
> >                               Mike
>
> --
> Microsoft Works ? What are we listing oxymorons?