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New csa2 FAQs: F002KBPADJS (Part 1 of 2)
Apple II Input Peripherals Manual
Csa2 FAQs-on-Ground file: FxxxKBPadJS.txt
This material compiled by the Ground Apple II site, 1997.
It may be freely distributed.
Note: This is a pure Text file which includes no Font, Style, Color,
etc. formatting. To correctly view tables and diagrams on a super-res
display, use a mono-spaced Font such as CoPilot or PCMononspaced.
____________________________
001- How do I do the Shift Key Mod?
002- What's a "VIDEX" board?
003- I need a GS ADB keyboard cable! Where can I get one?
004- How can I make a PC-to-Apple Joystick converter?
005- How can I do an Apple-to-PC Joystick conversion?
006- What are the dip-switch settings for the "BITMOUSE" card?
007- How can I switch my IIe keyboard layout to Dvorak?
008- What keyboards work as replacements for a GS keyboard?
009- What is a Koala Pad and how do I test it?
010- Can I convert a C-64 Koala Pad to work on my Apple II?
011- How do I make the internal cable for a IIe numeric keypad?
012- Is there a cable or card which lets you connect two joysticks?
013- How do I write programs for the Apple Graphics Tablet?
014- Why does my ][+ KB act like the CTRL key is always pressed?
015- How do I write programs which use the mouse?
016- Why does my IIe keyboard keep repeating characters?
017- How do I read the joystick on a GS in native mode?
018- Is a Y-adapter available for my GS keyboard?
019- How do you use the Kensington TurboMouse with a IIgs?
From: Steve Jensen
001- How do I do the Shift Key Mod?
Here's info from my files on the 'shift key mod':
The one wire shiftkey mod is the oldest and simplest fix that can be
made to the Apple II to get true upper and lower case operations with
the shift key. Most good word processors have input routines that check
the PB2 input on the game I/O port to determine if the shift key is
being pressed. Some programs that have these routines are Wordstar,
Write-on, Apple Pascal 1.1 and many others. Follow the steps below to
install the shift key mod.
parts:
1 mini-grabbette clip (Radio Shack PN 270-370)
1 15 in. piece of small guage wire
1 16 pin socket
1) Solder one end of the wire to the mini-grabbette clip.
2) Solder the other end of the wire to pin 4 of the 16 pin socket as
close to the body of the socket as possible.
3) Turn the Apple II off and remove the cover.
4) Remove anything plugged into the game I/O socket.
5) Attach the mini-grabbette clip to pin 24 of the keyboard encoder
connector. This connector is located inside the Apple II directly
beneath the RESET key. Pin 1 is nearest the power supply and pin 25 is
nearest the right edge of the Apple II. Use the grabbette clip to attach
to the standoff _pin 24_ (second from the end).
6) Lead the other end of the wire with socket attached along the right
edge of the motherboard and plug it into the game I/O port. Be careful
to plug pin 1 to pin 1 when putting this socket in. Pin 1 of the game
I/O port is towards the front of the computer.
7) Replace the cover and start using lower case characters.
____________________________
From: Paul Creager
002- I opened an Apple II+ the other day found that there was a
board labeled "VIDEX" tacked under the keyboard. What's a
"VIDEX" board?
The official name is the Videx Keyboard Enhancer. It replaces
Apple's keyboard encoder board underneath the keyboard. Besides
providing true U/L capability (with the Shift Key), it had a small
(10-20 character) buffer and supported programmable macro keys.
I had one on my ][+. I remember a couple of wires had to be run to
the motherboard. One enabled true Shift key usage. The other I can't
remember. If you don't have a wire running to an IC on the motherboard,
that explains why your Shift key isn't working. It could very well be
the same spot where the "traditional" Shift key mod is made.
____________________________
from Perry Dueck
003- I got a free IIGS but with no GS ADB keyboard cable!
Where can I get one?
You could try going to your nearest video/audio electronics store
and purchasing an 'S-VHS video cable' (used with "super video
input/output" TV monitors and super video vcr's). Those cables are
wired and pinned out exactly the same as an GS ADB cable.
____________________________
from Rubywand
004- How can I make a PC-to-Apple Joystick converter?
If you are looking for the best stick at the best price for your
Apple II, building a simple PC-to-Apple2 joystick converter is the way
to go. Practically every computer stuff store carries PC sticks and you
will have a wide selection of brands and models from which to choose.
My PC stick is a standard CH Products "FlightStick". A resistance
measurement produced a disconcerting revelation: the X and Y pots
top-out around 100K Ohms-- 50K less than a standard Apple II stick!
Fortunately, you can compensate for the difference just fine by adding a
bit of capacitance. The finished converter is shown below:
To PC Stick To Apple II
(15-pin female connector) (9-pin male connector)
[1] [4] and [5] -------------------[2] +5V
[2] -------------------------------[7] Button 0
[3] -------------------------------[5] X-axis
[6] -------------------------------[8] Y-axis
[7] -------------------------------[1] Button 1
[3] Ground
On the 9-pin Apple II side ...
add 680 Ohm resistor between [7] & [3]
add 680 Ohm resistor between [1] & [3]
add .01 uF cap* between [5] & [3]
optional: for easy fine-tuning, add 50K-100K trim pot
in series with the cap
add .01 uF cap* between [8] & [3]
optional: for easy fine-tuning, add 50K-100K trim pot
in series with the cap
*Note: The Capacitors compensate for smaller R range of PC
sticks.The C values are approximate. For standard 100K Ohm
PC sticks, .01 uF pretty well guarantees you will be able to
cover the full Apple II X and Y range (0-255).
Values of .01 uf (X-axis) and .005 uF (Y-axis) worked
well for a PC "FlightStick" when plugged into our Apple II+.
For checking and adjusting stick performance on your Apple II, use
a program which continuously reads and displays X and Y stick values.
The program below does this and displays "B0" when Button 0 is pushed
and "B1" when Button 1 is pushed. Do a CTRL-C to exit.
20 PRINT "X= "; PDL(0); TAB(15); "Y= ";PDL(1); TAB(30);
30 IF PEEK(49249)>127 THEN PRINT " B0";
40 IF PEEK(49250)>127 THEN PRINT " B1";
50 PRINT: GOTO 20
Note: If your Apple II uses an accelerator chip or board, make sure that
it "slows down" for joystick accesses or just set Speed to "Normal"
(1MHz).
Most likely, you will find that the a stick tops-out too early in
the X-max and/or Y-max direction. For best control precision, what you
want is for extreme values to occur near the extremes of stick movement:
X (horizontal) Left= 0 Right= 255
Y (vertical) Up= 0 Down= 255
This way, you have lots of active swing which makes graphics
work and playing most games much easier.
If you included the trim pots in your converter, adjusting for
maximum active swing will be easy. If your converter does not include
the trim pots, experiment with swapping in capacitance values between
.002 uF and .01 uF to get the best control 'spread'.
The converter I built fit inside heat-shrink tubing. Putting it in
a small plastic box may be better. You could mount the trim pots (and/or
switches with fixed "trim resistors") and select between settings for a
'Fast', short swing, 'hot' Game Stick and a 'Normal', full swing, 'cool'
Game/Graphics Stick.
____________________________
from Rubywand
005- I have a great Apple II joystick I'd like to use on my PC.
How can I do an Apple-to-PC Joystick conversion?
If you've compared the pin-outs and info for Apple II and PC
joysticks, then you know there are some important differences:
The Apple II stick uses a 9-pin plug vs. the PC's 15-pin plug. (Older
Apple II sticks may use a 16-pin plug which fits in an IC socket.)
The Apple II stick's X, Y controller potentiometers are a bit larger.
The buttons are wired differently.
You can use an Apple-to-PC adaptor (such as the one supplied with
the Epyx A2/PC joystick) to handle plug conversion; or, you can replace
the entire cable with one from an old PC stick.
The PC's joystick interface will work with the Apple2 150k pots;
but, in some applications, you may notice a tendency to max out early in
the stick swing. You can correct this by connecting a 300k resistor
across each pot (from the center to the end with a wire going to it).
The difference in button wiring is the main reason an Apple-to-PC
conversion involves opening the joystick and making changes. (The Apple
stick has a slightly more complex, less flexible circuit. Apple2-to-PC
is not as easy as PC-to-Apple2.)
Basically, you need to change the Apple stick's button wiring so
that it looks like the PC stick's button wiring.
The mods mentioned above are not difficult, especially if you swap
in a PC cable. If you want to be able to use the stick on an Apple II,
then some kind of switching will be required.
Apple II Joystick
(9-pin male connector) (Old 16-pin IC-style plug)
[2]--------------- +5V ------- 1
[7]--------------- Button 0 ------- 2
[5]--------------- X-axis ------- 6
[8]--------------- Y-axis ------- 10
[1]--------------- Button 1 ------- 3
[3]--------------- Ground ------ 8
PC Joystick
(15-pin female connector)
[1]--------------- +5V
[2] -------------- Button 0
[3] -------------- X-axis
[6] -------------- Y-axis
[7] -------------- Button 1
[4] and/or [5] Ground
Both sticks tie one end of each X, Y potentiometer to +5 and send
the center (wiper) to the an output. (Or the wiper may go to +5V and
an end to the output; it doesn't much matter.) The standard Apple II
pot is 150K Ohms; most PC sticks use 100k Ohm pots.
The buttons are wired differently.
On the Apple II stick (see below), each button switch goes to +5V.
The other end goes to GND through a resistor (one resistor for each
button). A button's Output is from the junction of the switch and its
resistor. When the button switch is not closed, its Output is near 0V
(=logic 0). Pressing a button sends +5V to the output (= logic 1).
+5V
|
|
X Button Switch
|
|_____Button output to Apple (Press => "1")
|
Z
Z 680 Ohm resistor
Z
|
GND
As shown below, a PC stick button Output is normally an unconnected
wire. Most likely, inside the computer, a PC or compatible Game Port has
this line tied to a 1k-3k resistor going to +5V. So, the line will
normally be at something close to +5V (= logic 1). Pressing the button
grounds the line and pulls it down near to 0V (= logic 0).
_____Button output to PC (Press => "0")
|
|
X Button Switch
|
|
GND
Apple2-to-PC Joystick Conversion: Step-by-Step
DOING THE CONVERSION
To convert an Apple2 joystick for PC use you will need a cable from an
old PC stick (or a 6-wire cable and 15-pin female connector). You can
find junk PC sticks with good cables at flea markets and lots of other
places. You will also need two 330k resistors.
1. First, open the Apple joystick case and mark each wire going to the
cable. The best way is to use small self-stick labels. Label each wire
by function (e.g. "+5", "X", "GND", etc.).
You can use an Ohm meter to, for example, verify that the wire you think
is Button 0 really goes to pin 7 on the Apple 9-pin connector (or pin 2
on the old 16-pin IC style connector). Pinouts for both kinds of A2
sticks are shown below:
Apple II Joystick
(9-pin male)
[2]---- +5V
[7]---- Button 0
[5]---- X-axis
[8]---- Y-axis
[1]---- Button 1
[3]---- Ground
Apple II Joystick
(16-pin IC-style plug)
[1]---- +5V
[2]---- Button 0
[6]---- X-axis
[10]--- Y-axis
[3]---- Button 1
[8]---- Ground
The +5V wire is easy to find. It will go to each pot and to one side of
each Button switch.
The Apple2 Ground wire goes to the 'bottom' end of each fixed resistor.
You do not need to label it; because it will be removed.
2. Once the wires are labeled, cut each about 1 inch from the point it
goes into the cable. Remove the cable. (Keep the cable; it may come in
handy for some later Apple2 project.)
Now, is the time to rewire the Buttons.
3. Remove (snip or unsolder) the two fixed resistors. If the Button 0 or
Button 1 lead becomes disconnected from its switch during removal of a
resistor, reconnect the lead.
Check to see that, now, the Button 0 wire is the only one going to one
side of the Button 0 switch. The same goes for the Button 1 wire.
Snip off or unsolder the +5 leads going to the other side of each button
switch at the non-switch end. If a wire runs from one switch to the
other, leave it alone. If not, connect a wire from switch to switch.
This is the "common" side of the switches.
You want to end up with a single wire going to the common side of the
switches and separate Button 0 and Button 1 wires going to the other
side:
____Button 0 wire
|
|
X B0 Switch
|
|
------- COMMON Wire
|
|
X B1 Switch
|
|____Button 1 wire
Label the COMMON wire as "GROUND"
4. The 330k resistors will help bring the outputs of the Apple2 X and Y
150k Ohm pots closer to the 0-100k range PC prefers. Connect a 330k
resistor 'across' each pot-- i.e. from the center post to the post going
to a +5 lead.
5. Label each of the leads coming from the PC cable. If it is still
connected to a joystick, the following pic will help identify each lead:
PC Joystick
(15-pin female connector)
[1]--------------- +5V
[2] -------------- Button 0
[3] -------------- X-axis
[6] -------------- Y-axis
[7] -------------- Button 1
[4] and [5] --- Ground
If the cable is still connected, snip the the leads once they are all
labeled. If both Ground ([4] and [5]) leads are present, twist them
together and treat like a single Ground lead.
FINISHING UP
6. You have six labeled wires in the Apple2 joystick case: +5, GROUND,
B0, B1, X, and Y. The same six leads are labeled on the PC cable. Splice
each Apple2 wire to the corresponding PC cable wire. Use heat-shrinkable
tubing to cover each connection.
7. Seat the new cable in the joystick case, arrange leads to avoid
mounting posts, etc., and close up the case. Viola!
CHECKS
If you have an Ohm meter here are some checks you can do:
X (Horizontal) Check- check R between cable pins 1 and 3. As you move
stick left to right R should go from 0 to about 100k.
Y (Vertical) Check- check R between cable pins 1 and 6. As you move
stick up to down R should go from 0 to about 100k.
Button 0 Check- (Button 0 is the main, "Fire" button.) cable pins 2 and
4 or 5. It should be very high and go to 0 when Button 0 is pressed.
Button 1 Check- check R between cable pins 7 and 4 or 5. It should be
very high and go to 0 when Button 1 is pressed.
TRYOUT
Plug in the stick and try it with a game.
Some games (such as Elite Plus) will claim no joystick is present if the
stick is badly out of adjustment. If this happens, try the stick on a
game which is less picky and includes pre-play stick adjustment.
Once adjusted, your 'new' stick should work fine with all PC wares.
____________________________
From: Alberto Roffe
006- Can someone tell me the dip-switch settings for the
"BITMOUSE" card by Sequential Systems?
The following comes from the BitMouse card manual, which I have
installed in my //e:
Switch 1- This switch controls mouse tracking sensitivity
OFF: Slow
ON: Fast
Switch 4- CPU speed
OFF: 1 to 4 MHz
ON: 5+ MHz
Switches 2&3 currently have no function.
____________________________
From: David E A Wilson
007- How can I switch my IIe keyboard layout to Dvorak?
There are a number of ways to set the NTSC //e keyboard to Dvorak.
1) If you have a Rev A motherboard cut X1 and join X2. This will allow
AN2 to control the keyboard layout (default will be Dvorak).
2) If you have a Rev B motherboard and want AN2 to control the
keyboard layout cut X2 and solder a short wire between the back half of
X2 and the back half of X3 (do not join X3).
3) Obtain a 24 pin IC socket. Solder 3 fine wires to pins 12, 19 and
24. Solder the other ends to a SPDT switch (pin 19 to the centre/common
terminal). Remove the keyboard ROM, insert the switch+socket and then
insert the keyboard ROM. Cut X1 (if Rev A) or X2 (if Rev B) to isolate
pin 19. Mount the switch somewhere convenient.
All the above was taken from "Understanding the Apple IIe" by Jim
Sather. I recommend it to you.
____________________________
From: Bradley P. Von Haden
008- My stock GS keyboard has been acting flaky; and, now
I'm looking for a GS keyboard replacement.
What's available?
Here is a list of ADB keyboards that I have compiled as of 96/01/06.
Additions/corrections welcome.
'+' designates changes from previous list
I have the following that work:
AppleDesign Keyboard ($85-90)
Apple Extended Keyboard II ($155-160)
Adesso 105 Extended Keyboard ($80 - Mac's Place, MacZone, Tiger SW)
Adesso 102 Extended Keyboard w/ Trackball [Trackball does NOT work]
($100 - Mac's Place, MacZone, Tiger Software)
Arrive Extended ($50 - MacMall)
Interex 105 Extended ($55 - MacMall, Syex Express; $34 - Computer City)
Key Tronic MacPro Plus ($130 - MacZone, APS Tech.)
OptiMac Extended Keyboard (???)
PowerUser 105E Extended Keyboard ($50 - MacWarehouse)
SIIG, Inc MacTouch Model 1905 (~$100.00)
Sun OmniMac Ultra [extended, ADB type] (???)
Suntouch ADB Extended Keyboard ($75 - Syex Express)
VividKey Extended Keyboard ($60 - MacMall)
Do not work:
Apple Adjustable Keyboard
MacALLY Peripherals Extended Keyboard
MicroSpeed Keyboard Deluxe MAC
Unknown:
ClubMac Extended Keyboard ($59 - ClubMac)
Datadesk MAC 101 E ($100 - MacWarehouse, MacZone)
Datadesk TrackBoard ($100 - MacWarehouse, MacZone)
Key Tronic Trak Pro Plus ($230 - APS Tech.)
Performance Soft Touch Extended Keyboard ($59 - MacZone)
Spring Sun Tech MacPride 97 ($90 - MacMall)
Spring Sun Tech MacPride 105 ($59 - MacMall)
Spring Sun Tech MacPride 110 ($80 - MacMall) [MAC/IBM switchable]
Spring Sun Tech MacPride KidBoard ($100 - MacMall)
Adesso Tru-From Ergonomic extended keyboard ($90 - CDW)
Adesso Tru-Form Ergonomic ext kb w/ pointer ($116 - MacZone)
____________________________
From: Rubywand
009- What is a Koala Pad and how do I test it?
The Koala Pad is drawing pad peripheral. It 'looks like' a
two-button joystick to your Apple II. So, any software which accepts
joystick input can use the pad. This includes the paint program
originally included with the pad (the "Koala Micro-Illustrator"),
"Blazing Paddles", "Dazzle Draw", "816 Paint", and many other programs.
The Koala Pad has the old 16-pin game plug. It is supposed to be
plugged into the Old Game Port socket. This is an 'IC socket' near the
back right side of the Apple II (II+, IIe, IIgs) motherboard. The cable
end should be facing toward the back.
It's a good idea to get a 9-pin plug -to- 16-pin socket converter
cable so that the pad can be plugged into the newer, external, 9-pin
Game Port. This makes it much easier to unplug the pad when you want to
swap-in a joystick for games. The converter cable is not hard to build;
or, you may find one at a swap meet.
You can test your KoalaPad using software which checks joysticks.
For example, touching the stylus to the upper left corner outputs X,Y
readings close to 0,0; touching the stylus to the lower right corner
outputs X,Y readings of 255,255. Near the center of the pad, the output
is about 130,130.
Some indication of shrinkage or stretching on the pad seems to be
normal. Our pad does not present a 'slate flat' look either; but, it
works fine. Before deciding that your pad is defective, try it out on a
joystick checker program. If you are using some kind of accelerator on
your Apple ][, be sure to set speed to 1MHz.
Similarly, you can check your software by substituting a joystick
for the KoalaPad.
------------------------------
010- I have a Koala Pad with a 9-pin DIN female plug. I guess it's
a C-64 model. Can I convert a C-64 Koala Pad to work on my
Apple II?
Since the standard Commodore-64 9-pin DIN port is male, it looks
like your Koala Pad (with a female plug) is, indeed, intended to work on
a C-64, VIC-20, etc. machine.
As to whether or not the C-64 Koala Pad can be used on an Apple II,
it looks like, probably, it can, if you can find or build an adaptor.
This is, really, a guess. It is based upon the capabilities of the C-64
Game port, time constant capacitor values used in the C-64, and the
probability that Koala Pad's makers would not wish to make major design
changes between Apple and C-64 models.
Although C-64 joysticks are of the simple "switcher" type which
connect to Game port switch inputs, the C-64 Game port also includes X
and Y analog "paddle" inputs. These are at pin 9 (X) and pin 5 (Y).
The C-64 manual does not ever seem to specify an optimal max R
value for the pots connected to these inputs; but, the capacitor part of
the expected R/C circuit is 1000 pF in each case and the caps go to
ground just as they do in the Apple II.
In short, the C-64 "paddle" inputs look very much like the Apple II
joystick inputs. A _try_ at an adaptor would look something like the
following ...
To C-64 Koala Pad To Apple II Game Port
(9-pin male DIN) (9-pin male DIN)
1 ?
2 ? 2nd Button -> 1
3 ?
4 ?
5 <- PDL1 (Y) -> 8
6 <- main button -> 7
7 <- +5V line -> 2
8 <- GND -> 3
9 <- PDL0 (X) -> 5
The above assumes that the C-64 Koala Pad will use C-64's "Fire
Button" input for its main button. The second button would, then,
connect to one of the four joystick switch inputs. (Actually, since all
of the switch inputs, including the Fire Button, are just inputs to a
port IC, any two may be the ones used to handle Koala Pad's buttons.)
It should be possible to detect the button lines on the Koala Pad
connector using an Ohm meter (on R x 100 range) with one lead connected
to the GND pin (pin 8) and using the other lead to check pins 1, 2, 3,
4, and 6. A button lead similar to one on an Apple II should show up as
a 500-700 Ohm resistance.
Again, we are dealing with guesses. If you decide to try making a
converter, be sure to post what you discover. Good luck!
_____________________
From: Mark Wade
011- Does anyone have the pin-to-pin mapping that would allow me
to construct a suitable internal cable for a IIe numeric
keypad?
You need a female DB-15 to 11 pin female header. If the female DB-15 is
numbered like this:
__________________________________________
\ /
\ 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 /
\ 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 /
\__________________________________/
And the 11 pin header is numbered like this:
_______________________________________
| |
| 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 |
|_____________________________________|
Then:
DB-15 | Header
__________|_____________
12 11
11 10
10 9
9 8
NC 7
7 6
6 5
5 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
The header is as viewed on the motherboard. The DB-15 is the female
connector that you would plug the keypad into.
_____________________________
from Rubywand
012- Is there some cable or card which lets a II user connect
two joysticks?
Yes. One is Paddle-Adapple from Southern California Research Group.
It is a small external card with sockets for the joysticks. A ribbon
cable runs into the Apple II and plugs into the 16-pin Game socket.
As noted in the "for Apple II, //e, & Franklin" model's data sheet,
Paddle-Adapple lets you switch between two sticks; or, with the switch
set to "A" plus proper jumper settings, you can access two two-button
sticks. The jumpers also allow programming the card for different X-Y
and button configurations.
__________________
From: Oliver Schmidt
013- How do I write programs for the Apple Graphics Tablet?
The Apple Graphics Tablet I know of is rather large and heavy; its pen
is attached to it with a (too short) cable; it makes funny sounds that
change when the pen is moved in/out the reach of of the tablet.
A long time ago I patched a few programs to make use of this tablet. To
make it clear in the first place - I don't have these patched versions
available anymore :-(. But I found a listing from which I can tell you
this:
To detect the interface card, I looped over all slots to check in its
firmware for
$B0 at location $Cx01 and
$20 at location $Cx09
x being the slot number. I never found this 'signature' in any other
firmware.
To check for the pen position one has to poll the tablet (again x being
the slot number):
LDA $CFFF ; switch off all extension ROMS
LDA $Cx00 ; switch on the extension ROM of the tablet
LDA #$Cx
STA $07F8 ; initialize some hidden text screen data area for the
tablet firmware
JSR $CBB9 ; call well known location ;-) in tablet firmware
When the pen is in reach of the tablet (up or down) this routine will
return immediatly. Else it will block - fortunatly the routine checks
the keyboard strobe ($C010) too and will also return if a key is
pressed, even if the pen remains out of tablets reach.
After the routine has returned one can get the information:
$0280 contains the state of the pen (up or down), I don't know excatly
any more wich bit it is nor if one can distiguish between 'pen up' and
'pen out of reach but key pressed'
$0281, $0282 contains the absolute X position of the pen
$0283, $0284 contains the absolute Y position of the pen
As far as I can remember the values have about 12 bit resolution (!).
Usually I needed screen coordinates (280 x 192), so I dropped the 4
least significant bits and did some additional adjustment. Unfortunatly
I can't remember either what coordinates will be there in the 'out of
reach but key pressed' case.
____________________________
From: Rubywand <rubywand@swbell.net>
014- My ][+ keyboard acts like the CTRL key is always pressed
when it isn't. (Press 'G' get beep....press 'M' get CR, etc..)
Is there a way to fix this problem?
Are you sure that your CTRL key is not stuck? Try diddling the key.
You can, also, pull the keytop and shaft and see whether (carefully)
lifting out the small crossbar wire makes any difference. (If it does, a
squirt of Radio Shack Control Cleaner into the switch and a wipe with a
cotton swab may de-gunk things and help restore normal functioning.)
Another possible source of the problem is a KB Controller IC pin
making poor contact with the line coming from the CTRL key circuit. (Try
removing and re-socketing the KB IC.)
U1, a 7400 quad nand gate IC, could have gone bad or be making poor
contact at some pins. This could result in an 'always-pressed CTRL key'
signal at pin 11.
When the CTRL key is not pressed, pins 12 and 13 of U1 (connected
to the CTRL key switch) should be at nearly 5V and pin 11 (which goes to
pin 19 of the KB Controller IC) should be at logic "0" (roughly 0V -
0.25V).
If U1 pins 12 and 13 are at 0V (or very close) when the CTRL key is
not pressed, your CTRL key switch is, probably, stuck.
If U1 pins 12 and 13 are at/near 5V and pin 11 is not near 0V, U1
is probably bad or making poor contact at some pins.
If U1 pin 11 is near 0V and pin 19 of the KB Controller IC is not,
then, there is either a break in the line connecting the pins or one or
both IC's are making poor socket contact.
If pin 19 of the KB Controller IC is near 0V when the CTRL key is
not pressed and near 4-5V when the CTRL key is pressed, then, if you
still have 'stuck CTRL key' symptoms, there is a good chance that the KB
Controller IC is messed up.
Note: all of this assumes that your KB is like the one diagrammed in the
Apple ][ Reference Manual on page 101.