Oracle wrote:
On 8 Nov, 04:46, "atfphotogra...@gmail.com" <atfphotogra...@gmail.com> wrote:Hello,I'm also confused as to the settings on the caps? What does the 40/085/56 mean?The only important things are: Capacitance (0,22uF) and tolerance (I can't see it) Working voltage (250V) Polarized or not (nonpolarized) Distance between the two pin (you had to put in it the PCB) I think you can find this kind of capacitor from a TV repair.
Actually, the capacitance is not at all critical (though if it is too high, it will lower the effective rating of any fuse because of additional reactive current). A 0.1uF replacement for a 0.22uF capacitor will work fine. The highest working voltage you can find (that is at least as large as the original rating) and will still fit is the best bet. These caps are directly across the AC line, and see any spikes on the line. All non-electrolytic capacitors are nonpolarized, so no trouble there. If a replacement will physically fit (not touching anything that gets hot), it will work. You can always bend the leads a bit to get the spacing right. (Use needlenose pliers to avoid high bending stresses.) The critical thing about any replacement is that it be X2 rated, as the one you show is. These capacitors are designed to sit across the AC line. They are "self-healing" in the event of minor shorts (for most of their life), and so are safe in this application. The downside is that their dielectric impregnant is really smelly. ;-) -michael NadaNet 3.0 for Apple II parallel computing! Home page: http://home.comcast.net/~mjmahon/ "The wastebasket is our most important design tool--and it's seriously underused."