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Re: Little Mouse
Roger Johnstone wrote:
>In <Vbjnc.28326$LA4.3458@edtnps84> Wayne Stewart wrote:
>> Michael J. Mahon wrote:
>>
>>> In principle, one could print a suitable pattern on mylar or on
>>> a transparent film that could be applied to an aluminum plate.
>>> In practice, it might be difficult to get the horizontal and vertical
>>> rulings the right "color" and transparency to get smooth tracking.
>>>
>>> Your best bet is to try to find one of the original plates, or
>>> one that is similar enough to work. ;-(
>>
>> I tried printing a few patterns onto transparency sheets with an
>> inkjet but it didn't work too well. I think maybe the black was
>> too translucent.
>> Finding the original plate might be more than difficult. I've a few
>> ideas on materials to try out so I'll see how that goes.
>>
>> Wayne
>
>I've got one of the original plates, but it goes with the Little Mouse I
>own. It's the A+ version i.e. for the Apple mouse port. The plate is
>polished aluminium. The lines that make up the grid are spaced at about
>three lines per millimetre in both directions, with the space between
>lines about twice the width of the lines. The lines are black, or at
>least they don't reflect back visible light :o)
I have one, too.
Mine has lines that are vaguely "bluish" in one direction and
"redish" in the other. I can't remember for sure whether this
is the original plate, though.
I see mouse "plates" like this occasionally in boxes of "computer
junk" that wind up at yard sales and thrift stores. I expect that
most of them are either thrown away or repurposed as trivits. ;-(
Bill's suggestion about putting the transparency on a mirror
is a good one, but a conventional mirror has the reflective surface
a few millimeters behind the front surface, which can create "line
doubling" due to parallax. If you can find a fairly shiny piece of
aluminum you may have better luck.. You also want to put the
printed side toward the mirror to minimize line doubling.
-michael
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