Re: PLEASE HELP: Repair of IIE/IIC Mouses

["Bill Garber" <willy4SPAM6pa@comXcast.net>]

"Michael Black" <et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote in message
news:bklpd7$47h$1@freenet9.carleton.ca...
> "Jason Whorton" (Please Reply To Newsgroup) writes:
> > "Quadrajet1" <quadrajet1@aol.com> wrote in message
> > 20030921195301.07457.00000767@mb-m27.aol.com">news:20030921195301.07457.00000767@mb-m27.aol.com...
> > <<
> > Hellllloooooooo!!!!!! What about testing the wires with an
> > OHM-Meter. It will find the broken wire just as easily and
> > requires no cutting and stretching. Your approches are very
> > amateur to say the least and I don't recommend it at all.
> >  >>
> >
> >   So, to get to the broken wire, you still have to strip back the sheath
and
> > cut back all the wires.  Okay, I do have a $400 ohm meter, but not
everyone
> > else has one, and I was merely saying how to find the broken wire
without
> > one.
> > Once you find the bad wire, how are you going to fix it?
> >
> > *******************************************
> > How do you already know for certain his mouse has broken wires???
> >
> You can't be sure but...
>
> The average person is far more likely to be able to replace a wire than
> anything else in the mouse.
>
> Wires are a weak point, especially where the enter something.
>
> Since these mice are not serial output (I'm right about that?)
> a broken wire is more clear.  Since there are four separate wires
> for each of the directions of the mouse (up/down/left/right) the
> mouse not working in one axis will translate to a broken wire.
> In a serial or PS2 mouse, a broken wire will result in total failure,
> or flakey operation along all axis.
>
> There is very little inside the mouse.  Cylinders that are mechanically
> coupled to the interruptor wheels, one for up/down the other for
left/right.
> Likely you will be able to feel if there is a fault (though it might
> make sense to ensure that both cylinders are moving freely).
> Two optocouple (which amounts to an LED and a photodiode) with a space
> between the two parts for the interruptor wheels, one for up/down
> the other for left/right.  And maybe some gate or schmidt triggers
> between the optocouplers and the cable for buffering.  Mechanical
> things are more likely to fail before electronics, and if those
> interruptors are moving freely, then wire is the next likely suspect.
>
>     Michael

True, but I've found that some are simply not wired the same and
just don't work with the American equipment, especially the ones
that are marked "Made In Japan".

Bill @ GarberStreet Enterprizez };-)
Web Site - http://garberstreet.netfirms.com
Email - willy4SPAM6pa@comXcast.net
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