Re: Apple IIgs Upgrade From Apple //e

["Mark Cummings" <NOTfigjams@primus.com.au>]

> Man, this is SUPER COOL!!!! Looking at the photos, especially the
> PeGSbase.jpg photo, I didn't notice any additional holes to mount the
logic
> board to the base. Does that mean the IIGS uses the same mounting base
clips
> as the IIe logic board?

no, there are new holes, but rather than use the existing PCB standoffs
which fit into a squarish hole you can buy standoffs that use a round hole
(much easier to drill in the case).
in the photo you should be able to see about 6 old square holes and there
are 8 new plastic standoffs and two metal ones with screws. the metal ones
stop the board from rocking around everywhere and also connect the chassis
to earth on the circuit board.
I can't recall now but I think I put a plastic screw in the old metal
standoffs that the //e used, to prevent the circuit board from shorting out.
this means that the new standoffs are a bit higher. I'd have to remove it to
check now.

> I like having the IIe case much more than the IIGS case. For my desktop
> workspace, having the keyboard attached to a heavy base like the IIe case
is
> much more solid, and for my situation it takes up less space. And, it's
> probably just me, but opening the lid on the IIe is much simpler (doesn't
> even take thumbs to open).

> Going back to an earlier comment, someone mentioned that taking a used IIe
> keyboard connector and II/II+/IIe power connector and solder them to the
> logic board is all that was needed. Is that what you did? Or, did you just
> happen to have the right logic board? I've never tried soldering anything
on
> the IIGS logic board and I was wondering if anyone had tips on how to
> prevent heat damage when performing this procedure?

I have two different ROM1's. one had the connectors, the other didn't. I
used the board that had the connectors on it already. obviously the early
ones were for both new GSs and //e upgrades. the later ones dropped the
extra connectors, and the ROM-3 got rid of the real estate altogether. just
to save a few bucks and I guess they figured everyone who wanted to upgrade
would have by then or was saving for a real GS.
Actually I have a beige //e too, and I never even considered putting the GS
board in it. maybe the holes line up better. then again, they never had to
because the upgrade came with a new aluminium base anyway.

As far as soldering tips go, the ROM1 board I have has the holes filled with
solder. First you would have to remove the solder. three options are (in
order of preference):
 1. use a specialised desoldering station
 2. use desolder wick and I recommend with flux on the wick as it works so
much better.
 3. drill out the solder in the holes to just the right size for the legs of
the new plug, but not that big that it will cut into the through-hole
plating.
I sometimes use option 3 after trying with the other two first on the rest
of the holes. sometimes it is the only way when the board has a large heat
sink on a pad.

tips to minimise damage to the board:
 1. use a temperature between 320degC and 360degC (or whatever that is in
degF). better to use a high heat for a short time when dealing with large
heat sinks, so you might need to crank up the temperature when you do the
ground wire/track which tends to be the biggy.
 2. use a large enough chisel tip so that it transfers heat quickly.
definately don't turn the iron up to a high temp and use a small tip, you
will almost certainly damage the board this way because you end up holding
the iron on the pad for ages and the tip cools down when it hits the board
so won't work anyway.
 3. use just a tad more than the minimum amount of time to heat the joint.
don't leave the iron on there for ages or pimpling will occur.
 4. don't apply too much pressure with iron or you may lift the pad.
 5. place a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron so that it
transgers the heat to the joint quickly.
 6. remove all socketed components before working on the board.
 7. watch where you wave the iron as sometimes you hit the plastic on
something nearby and it's melted before you realise what's happened.
8. use anti-static precautions when handling the board, especially in a dry
environment.
9. when soldering on the new connector, add a small amount of solder to the
tip and place it at the junction of the pad on the board and the leg at
about 45deg angle. then as they heat up you can then add more solder as
required.

hope that helps.

Mark