Re: C-64->IIe joystick adapter?

["Roger Johnstone" <rojaws@es.co.nz>]

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In article <20000101153705.04027.00000543@ng-ca1.aol.com>,
mdripley37@aol.com (MDRipley37) wrote:


>can anyone tell me if it is possible to convert or adapt a c64 joystick for use
>on an apple IIe I have a Wico ergo joystick that I would like to convert for
>use on my IIe. any advice, diagrams, pinouts, or other useful advice is greatly
>appreciated TIA 

There was an adaptor available many years ago which allowed you to use Atari
style joysticks (I think Commodore used the same interface). Unfortunately
it required special software support in the program, quite a few games from
the early 1980s had it but it disappeared later on. I've never seen one, but
I assume it used the annunciator outputs on the internal game I/O connector
to scan the six switches on a joystick. Four outputs and three inputs would
support 12 switches, enough for a pair of joysticks.

Many years ago (sometime in the late 80s) I couldn't afford to buy a
joystick for my Dick Smith Cat (a.k.a. Video Tech Laser 3000, early Apple II
clone from the makers of the Laser 128) so I bought a Quickshot 1 for a
quarter of the price, hacked about a lot and got it to work on an Apple.
Warning: I had to drill holes and use self-tapping screws as adjustable
contact points!

Unfortunately this joystick was cannibalised for bits years ago, but going
by memory:
A switch-type joystick has 3 positions in each axis, but only 2 switches. To
get it work like an analogue joystick one of the switches needs to be a
two-way switch with normally-open and normally-closed contacts.

You had better be viewing this next bit in a mono-spaced font (even then
it's not wonderful)

                 _____ 2 
      \         / 
1 ___  \___ ___/  ____ 3
           |
           |
           |
           4

1=left switch (connected to +5V)  2=middle switch (connected via 75 kilohm
resistor to +5V)  3=right switch (connected via 150 kilohm resistor to +5V) 
4=paddle input

When you move the joystick left, switches 1 and 2 are closed, the simulated
pot is set to 0 ohms. In the middle position switch 2 is closed, pot is at
75 kilohms. Right, switch 3 is closed, pot is at 150 kilohms. The problem is
switch 2 doesn't normally exist. If you have a good quality joystick it
might use micro switches with extra normally-closed contacts which you can
use. If not, you would have to hack something. I drilled a hole above the
switch contact and threaded a screw in until it touched it.

The triggers are easy, you just have to add pull-down resistors.

If this hasn't scared you off, post back and I can send the pin-outs for the
plug. The FAQs at http://members.xoom.com/apple_II/faqs.html also have info
on the joystick interface.


Roger Johnstone
Invercargill
New Zealand
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The programmer's national anthem is 'AAAAAAAARRRRGHHHHH!!'.